Perú - Cusco, Machu Picchu and Tambopata
Saturday 8th to Sunday 23rd August 2009
AA9039
Perú
has around 1,800 species of birds, including 125 that are endemic to the
country. It is also extremely rich in archaeology, with Machu Picchu, the
Lost City of the Incas, its most famous attraction and itself an excellent
birding location.This tour begins with four days in the area around Machu Picchu and the nearby town of Cusco, where as well as the Inca ruins we will visit the scenic Lake Huacarpay and the temperate forest of Malaga Pass and explore along the Urubamba River. Then we embark on a wonderful nine-day expedition into the Reserva Nacional Tambopata, an immense protected area in the south-eastern state of Madre de Dios. Extensive surveys of the flora and fauna have been carried out up and down the Tambopata River valley revealing an incredible abundance of wildlife. The rainforests of Perú are in fact believed to be the most diverse ecosystem on the planet and as well as an incredible variety of birds we can hope to find some of the rare mammals that live here such as Collared Peccary, Tapir, Jaguar and Ocelot. Among the places we stay is the Tambopata Research Centre. A major attraction here is the world's largest macaw clay lick where hundreds of parrots and macaws of up to 15 species congregate daily. We can expect to see up to twelve members of the parrot family including Red-and-green, Blue-and-gold, Scarlet, Red-bellied, Chestnut-fronted and Blue-headed Macaws and Mealy and Yellow-crowned Amazons – a fantastic sight. In truth, a series of tours to Perú is required in order to see the magnificent diversity of birdlife that can be found there. It really does provide a superb birding experience and after the years of internal problems that made it unsafe for tourism, now is the time to go.
Day 1: Depart UK to Lima, arriving in the evening. We will then transfer to our hotel.
Overnight – Posada del Inka El Olivar.
Day 2: Following an early breakfast we will be transferred to the airport for our domestic flight to Cusco. We will drive south of town to Lake Huacarpay (45 minutes) for a first taste of Andean birds. This rather scenic high Andean lake is surrounded by reed beds, and moist short-grass meadows. Birds are usually numerous and relatively easy to see. We should enjoy scope views of Andean Coot, Andean Duck, Speckled Teal, Yellow-billed Pintail, and the Puna Teal. The highlights of the moist grass are Cinereous Harrier, Andean Lapwing, Puna Ibis and Andean Negrito, a gracious ground dwelling and nicely coloured tyrannid. We will also approach the reed beds to lure into view Wren-like Rushbird, Plumbeous Rail, Yellow-winged Blackbird and the stunning Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant. The surrounding arid foothills support a number of Andean specialities including Aplomado Falcon, Black-chested Hawk-Eagle, Andean Flicker, Rusty-fronted Canastero (endemic), Streak-fronted Thornbird, Black-winged Ground-Dove, Green-tailed Trainbearer, Giant Hummingbird, and the classy Bearded Mountaineer (endemic), a prize of this location. After a picnic lunch we will take the Huambutio- Pisaq road, enjoying the quaint Andean farmland scenery, to the Sacred Valley of the Incas and our hotel.
Overnight - Posada del Inka Yucay
Day 3: Our purpose today is to reach the high temperate forest on the humid side of Malaga Pass in time to explore this unique habitat early in the morning, at the peak of avian activity. We will have a very early start (4:00 am) to be on the road shortly thereafter. Beginning from the Urubamba Valley, our route will take us through ancient Inca ruins on a winding road that creeps up the dry side of the cordillera. Soon we will be driving through the wind-swept puna grassland where a number of widespread birds are possible. We will drive past the Puna Grassland, the Malaga Pass and descend on the remarkably different east side of the pass where the hillsides are blanketed with lush temperate forest with a backdrop of the imposing Veronica Glacier, one of the most beautiful of its kind in South America. Birding the temperate forest of Malaga Pass is superb. This birding spot affords eye-level views of such great Andean birds as Grass-Green Tanager, Crested Quetzal, and Sword-billed Hummingbird and flocks of furnariids, flycatchers and the dazzling Scarlet-bellied and Hooded Mountain Tanagers. This is precisely what lures birders to this spot. At mid-morning we will go up the road to explore the misty and moss clad tree-line forest followed by a picnic lunch serenaded by Golden-headed Quetzal, Moustached Flower-Piercer, Paramo Seedeater, Three-striped Hemispingus, and the endemics Marcapata Spinetail, Red-and-White Antpitta, Parodi's Hemispingus, Inca Wren, and Unstreaked Tit-Tyrant to name only a few. After lunch we will explore the tree-line forest for some skulkers including Puna Thistletail (endemic), Mountain Wren, and Diademed Tapaculo as we gain elevation on our way to a trailhead where we will take a short but strenuous hike (optional) to the Polylepis forest. At 4000 m the hardy Polylepis trees support a set of birds whose geographical distribution almost entirely depends on scarce patches of Polylepis woodlands along the Andean Mountain Chain. Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant, Giant Conebill, White-browed and Tawny Tit-Spinetails, and the rare and endangered Royal Cinclodes are possible only in Polylepis forest, and this is one of the most accessible existing Polylepis woodlands! Following our high elevation hike, we will descend on to the arid scrub making planned stops in search of sierra-finches, canasteros, ground-tyrants, soaring Andean Condor or Puna Hawk, and the endemics: Creamy-crested Spinetail, White-tufted Sunbeam and Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch.
Overnight - Posada del Inka Yucay
Day 4: After an early breakfast we will depart for the Putucusi train station in Ollantaytambo for a train ride to the lost Inca City of Machu Picchu. From Ollantaytambo we descend to 6800 feet along the Urubamba River and across several habitats, Andean villages and breathtaking scenery. We arrive in the town of Aguas Calientes below Machu-Picchu, check in our hotel and prepare to ascend to the city of Machu-Picchu at 8200 feet. Birding takes a temporary back seat for a tour to the ruins guided by a local expert. With binoculars in hand we might briefly interrupt the Machu-Picchu tour to spot Plum-crowned Parrots, Mitred Parakeets and White-tipped Swift and "the" bird of Machu-Picchu; the endemic Inca Wren. We'll have the balance of the day to bird the very productive grounds of our hotel where Ocellated Piculet, Gould's Inca, Booted Rackettail, Highland Motmot, and Sparkling Violetear are right outside our rooms.
Overnight - Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel.
Day 5: This morning we will explore the railroad and the Urubamba River in search of Torrent Ducks, White-capped Dippers and Fasciated Tiger Herons. Specialties of this site include Sclater's and Ashy-headed Tyrannulets, Variable Antshrike, Green-and-white Hummingbird, Long-tailed Sylph, Barred Becard, Pale-legged Warbler, Golden, Beryl-Spangled, Flame-faced, Silver-backed, Blue-necked, Golden-naped, Golden-collared, Saffron-crowned and Rust-and-yellow Tanagers, Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch, and Dusky-green Oropendola. We'll pay special attention to Andean-Cock-of-the-Rocks often seen along the railroad tracks. The area can also yield Blue-banded Toucanet, Andean Guan, Versicolored Barbet, Black-and-Chestnut Eagle and the rare Peruvian endemic, the Masked Fruiteater. After very rewarding birding we board the train in the afternoon to return to Cusco.
Overnight - Posada del Inca Cusco.
Day 6: Following breakfast in our hotel we will transfer to the airport for
a short flight to Puerto Maldonado. Here begins an exciting nine-day Birdwatching Expedition to Tambopata.
Skirting Puerto Maldonado, we drive 20 kilometres to the Tambopata River
Port, entering the Native Community of Infierno. From here it is just a
45-minute boat ride to Posada Amazonas.
Overnight - Posada Amazonas.
Day 7: A 30-minute walk at dawn takes us to a 30-metre tall
scaffolding tower, which will add a whole new dimension to our Amazon
birding experience: the forest canopy. We will spend the whole morning here
watching for mixed flocks of canopy species to appear. Mixed flocks are
mostly tanagers: Paradise Tanager, Green-and-gold Tanager, Flame-crested
Tanager, Turquoise Tanager, Opal- rumped Tanager and others. The tower also
offers a good opportunity to see Cream-colored Woodpecker, Gilded Barbet,
Plum-throated Cotinga and Striolated Puffbird. Macaws and toucans are seen
flying against the horizon, including the Chestnut-eared, Lettered, Emerald,
Curl-crested, and Brown-mandibled Aracaries. As the sun heats up we should
see raptors - this is our best chance for hawk-eagles and maybe even Harpy!
Later we will bird the Shahue Trail, good for Fiery-capped Manakin,
Round-tailed Manakin, Pale-rumped Trumpeteer and Pavonine Quetzal.
Overnight - Posada Amazonas.
Day 8: After breakfast it’s just a 15-minute drive to the bamboo
patches around Tres Chimbadas Lake. We will leave lake birding aside and
focus on the bamboo specialists. We will look for the endemic White-cheeked
Tody Tyrant, Peruvian Recurvebill, Red-billed Scythebill, Rufous-headed
Woodpecker, Rufous-breasted Piculet, Brown-rumped Foliage Gleaner, Large-
headed Flatbill, Dusky- tailed Flatbill, Dusky-cheeked Foliage-gleaner,
Flammulated Bamboo-tyrant, Dot- winged and Ornate Antwren, White-lined
Antbird, Rufous capped Nunlet, Pheasant Cuckoo and Striped Cuckoo.
Later we set out from Posada Amazonas by boat to Tambopata Research Centre,
six and a half hours away. As we cross the confluence with the Malinowski
River, we will leave the final traces of human habitation behind. Within the
700,000 hectare uninhabited nucleus of the reserve, sightings of Capybara,
Caiman, geese, macaws and other large species will become more frequent.
After dinner scientists based at the Research Centre will provide an in
depth look at the biology of macaws, their feeding habits, the theories for
clay lick use, their breeding and feeding ecology, population fluctuations
and the threats to their conservation.
Overnight - Tambopata Research Centre
Day 9: On most clear mornings of the year dozens of large macaws and
hundreds of parrots congregate on this large river bank in a raucous and
colourful spectacle which inspired a National Geographic cover story.
Discretely located fifty metres from the cliff, we will observe
Green-winged, Scarlet and Blue-and-gold Macaws and several species of
smaller parrots descend to ingest clay. Outings are at dawn when the lick is
most active.
After breakfast we will explore the quintessential rainforest on the 5-mile
Ocelot Trail and the 5-mile Toucan Trail systems. The Ocelot Trail is in the
floodplain with ponds and streams forming during the rainy season. The
Toucan Trail on the other hand is tall rainforest that rarely or never
floods. Both of these trails represent the most speciose habitats for birds.
Too many possibilities to list, this is habitat for Starred Wood Quail,
Pale-winged Trumpeter, several trogons, foliage-gleaners, Black-tailed
Leaftosser, many woodcreepers, antbirds, flycatchers, manakins, and much
more. Mixed species flocks are especially diverse with understorey flocks
led by Dusky-throated Antshrike and Red-crowned Ant-Tanagers. They often
contain 30-40 species (or more!) including: Plain-winged Antshrike, Bluish
Slate Antshrike, White eyed Antwren, Plain breasted Antwren, Thrush-like
Antpitta, White winged Shrike Tanager, Amazonian Barred Woodcreeper and
Spix’s Woodcreeper. The Ocelot Trail also crosses some permanently flooded
old ponds inhabited by Agami Heron, Rufescent Tiger-heron, Pygmy and
Green-and-rufous Kingfishers, and Sunbittern.
After long hikes we can continue to bird within the confines of the Research
Centre. Species possible here include Squirrel Cuckoo, Masked Crimson Tanager, Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper, Speckled Chachalaca and
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker.
Overnight - Tambopata Research Centre
Day 10: We will spend the morning with further exploration of the
floodplain and the rainforest.
After lunch a three to five kilometre hike along the Overlook Trail will
give us commanding magnificent views of the Tambopata winding its way into
the lowlands. The forest on this trail, regenerating on old bamboo forest,
is good for Howler Monkey and Dusky Titi Monkey.
Overnight - Tambopata Research Centre
Day 11: We will explore older river-created habitats at a pond five
minutes upstream from the Research Centre - forests of Cecropia and Balsa
Wood with a bamboo understorey. This is the habitat of the legendary Rufous-fronted
Antthrush, and the Lemon-throated Barbet, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Cabanis
Spinetail, Amazonian Antpitta, Blackish Antbird, Fuscous Flycatcher, Guira
Tanager and Troupial. As we exit the pond’s forests, we will bird on grassy
areas with Tessaria and young Cecropia trees. These are not very diverse for
birds but are the main habitat for Plain-crowned and Dark-breasted
Spinetails, Mottle-backed Elaenia, Spotted Tody-Flycatcher, Black-billed
Thrush, Orange-headed Tanager, and seedeater species among others.
After lunch a 30-minute hike brings us to the palm swamp. Dead aguaje palms
serve as nests to Red-bellied and Blue-and-gold macaws. An elevated
boardwalk and scaffolding tower allow for eye level observation of the
macaws as they fly in and out of their nests.
After dinner, we will venture out near the lodge to spot-light Pauraque,
Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl, Great Potoo, Long tailed Potoo, Ocellated
Poorwill and if we are lucky a Mottled Owl or Crested Owl. There is also the
possibility of seeing American Bullfrogs, Horned Frog, tree frogs and other
creatures of the night.
Overnight - Tambopata Research Centre
Day 12: This morning we leave Tambopata as a three and a half hour
boat ride takes us to Refugio Amazonas.
After lunch a 30-minute walk from Refugio Amazonas leads to the 25-metre
scaffolding canopy tower. A bannistered staircase running through the middle
provides safe access to the platforms above. The tower has been built upon
high ground, therefore increasing your horizon of the continuous primary
forest extending out towards the Tambopata National Reserve. From here views
of mixed species canopy flocks as well as toucans, macaws and raptors are
likely.
Overnight - Refugio Amazonas
Day 13: A two-hour hike takes us to Sachavacayoc Lake where we will
search for the resident family of five Giant River Otters (seen by only
about 30% of lake visitors) and other lakeside wildlife such as Caiman,
Hoatzin and Horned Screamers. We hike out at dawn - when otters are active.
Don’t forget the two-hour return hike! For those who do not want to take the
long hike Condenado Lake, thirty minutes from the lodge, is an option.
Since Refugio Amazonas is built on land which was once part of a timber
concession and cattle ranch the forest on parts of our trail system is
secondary.
This means we will focus on: Barred Antshrike, Short-tailed Pygmy Tyrant,
Streaked Flycatcher, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Solitary Black Cacique,
Grey-fronted Dove, Ruddy Ground Dove and others.
Overnight - Refugio Amazonas
Day 14: Today we retrace our river and road journey back to Puerto
Maldonado. From there we fly to Lima.
Overnight - Posada del Inka El Olivar.
Days 15 & 16: Morning transfer to Lima Airport for return flight to
UK arriving on the morning of Day 16.